GMA's fashion legacy a 'hit and miss'
MANILA - President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo's fashion legacy is one of hits and misses, much like her presidency.
The most awaited of her fashion statements each year are her gowns for State of the Nation Address (SONA) events, where guests' and politicians' dresses sometimes become as talked about as national issues.
In almost all her SONA speeches, President Arroyo always wore Filipiniana clothing like ternos and "Maria Claras", except for 2001 and 2002, when she donned embellished pantsuits.
"In her first two SONA events, I believe she was trying to project an image of professionalism, competence, and a 'can do' image by choosing outfits that projected more of a 'dress for success' look," said Delby Bragais, a fashion designer and an internationally certified image consultant in the country.
"The succeeding choices for her SONA outfits then shifted to the terno and Maria Clara gowns, perhaps in an effort to project a more Filipino image," she said.
Best clothes forward
Arroyo also wore significantly less flashy jewelry during her 2008 SONA - a move that New York-based Filipino designer Marc Rancy and wedding couture veteran Joel Bautista attribute to the government's austerity measures.
That year, former Press Secretary Jesus Dureza sent out a press release stating that her pale fuchsia pink gown made with woven "sabang" was supposed to symbolize self-reliance, stability of the country, care of the environment, and concern for the poor and vulnerable.
Bragais said although fashion's message depends on who's looking, it is still an important aspect of projecting a good public image.
"Outfits of the head of state should be carefully thought of in terms of design, specific body type, her fashion personality, her best colors, her lifestyles, or where the outfits will be worn; in a addition to a well thought-of branding strategy," she said.
"This way, she makes a strong and consistent fashion statement, as well as uses this mage to further her political goals and objectives in the local and international arena," she added.
Rating her SONA regalia
The designers interviewed by abs-cbnNEWS.com/Newsbreak said Arroyo's Filipiniana attire for the SONAs were appropriate for the occasion, safe, and not over-the-top.
They said her gown color choices were bold (from a rich indigo to vibrant red), in shades that suited her moderately fair complexion. She carried her outfits well, despite her short stature, they said.
Rancy particularly liked her 2001 and 2002 pantsuits, because they looked "Muslim-inspired." "I think it's important not to leave out the fashions of the Muslims," he said.
Her blue-green suit in 2001 had ethnic designs on the cuffs akin to Moro designs, while her 2002 gold pantsuit sported a veil-like sash near the ascot collar.
However, they noted that some of her outfits were "outdated" and were too repetitive, tending to sport elaborate embroidery.
"Of course, it represents the Filipino culture. The thing is, the [SONA] gowns are pretty, but it lacks the modern touch. From what I can see, everything's been done by several people already," Rancy remarked.
Time for change
If they had an opportunity to dress Arroyo for the SONA, the designers opted for "traditional clothes with a modern twist."
Bragais said she would create a hand-embroidered three-piece set of dyed tunic-inspired piña jacket, top, and pants. Rancy would ditch the bolero-type "panuelos" and go for simply embroidered tube-top ternos to give Arroyo's neckline some room.
Some of her outfits suited her figure more than others. For example, her deep red beaded "panuelo" in 2006 and her intricately beaded Persian blue cover-up in 2005 only emphasized her small shoulders and face, giving the impression that the clothes were engulfing her frame.
Bautista and Rancy said her gowns could use less embroidery like beads and sequins, and more of elegant accents like quality fabrics or tiny cloth rosettes. "Sometimes simpler is better," Bautista said.
Rancy recommends that Arroyo wear more classic modern jewelry, like diamonds or pearls, instead of the bulky heirloom antique pieces she wore in 2005 and 2006.
He also pointed out that Arroyo's hairstyle, short and swept slightly across her forehead, barely changed throughout her SONA speeches. "I think she should try something new. Maybe a longer bob cut would do," Rancy said.
A fashionable president?
Often, a president's fashion choices are pieced together by a team of stylists who worry about what he or she will wear at a particular day and time, leaving heads of states to worry about "more important things."
Aside from her SONA terno outfits, Arroyo's day-to-day wardrobe include casual to corporate attire often fashioned by her loyal stead of designers JC Buendia, Ito Curata, Rem Divino, and Inno Sotto.
Hair and makeup is handled by Gener Miranda, jewelry is usually handled by Gabby Panlilio, while wardrobe and accessories are handled by Joanne Zapanta-Andrada, a former fashion model and close family friend of the Arroyos.
"We try to make ensembles that are simple [and] elegant, [ones] that reflect the no-nonsense substance that [Arroyo] is all about," Andrada said in an interview with Mary Anne Plaza published on HerWord.com.
At best, Rancy described her fashion as "hit and miss." She could wear chic suits one day for state events, then wear unflattering high-waist jeans and bulky jackets the next day for provincial sorties.
"But then again as a stateswoman, it's not always a gala event for you to be very flamboyant, stylish and fashionable. Sometimes you have to look very corporate, because it's like running a big company. Or you have to look different to suit the occasion. She's done fairly well, she's doing a good job (fashion-wise)," Bautista said.
Petite president
Since Arroyo is petite, standing at 4 feet 11 inches, the designers interviewed by abs-cbnNEWS.com/Newsbreak said it is challenging to dress her. Some of her SONA attire suited her body type more than others.
"How can you create a lot of styling and detailing for a person who's barely 5 feet tall?" Bautista said.
Styles that might flatter her figure are column dresses, which fall on the body without overwhelming its shape, pencil cut dresses, or slim-fit trousers to elongate her legs and give the illusion of height.
According to a 2002 PilipinoSTAR report, Inno Sotto once recommended that the President wear flesh-toned heels (made in Manila) to make her legs look longer.
There are also budget constraints to think of when designing a dress for the President. Bautista said Arroyo is known in the fashion scene as one who chafes at reports that her outfits are expensive.
No help for the fashion industry
Aside from her "hit and miss" fashion style, the designers said Arroyo's administration has also failed to support the Filipino fashion industry in terms of funding, support, and promotions.
"Sad to say, the government has done very little or even nothing to help the fashion industry unlike in Thailand and Singapore. This is the plus of [Imelda Marcos]. If it wasn't for her, Philippine fashion would be nowhere," Bautista said.
Rancy believes the administration failed to see the fashion industry's potential as a source for income and jobs. "They thought it was just all glamour and superficial[ity]. But there's big money behind it," he said.
He said Filipino designers are definitely competitive because of their unique aesthetic and ability to create clothes even with limited resources. Fashion capitals like New York or Milan also look for indigenous fabrics - a great export opportunity.
Bautista said that by wearing creations by Filipino designers, Arroyo boosted the image of local designers and the beauty of indigenous materials.
But more than that, Rancy said Arroyo could have also expanded her stable of fashion consultants to include younger and upcoming designers instead of sticking to her usual retinue.
Couture crisis
Although the Technical Education and Skills Development Authority program offers clothing courses, the designers said there could have been more grants for aspiring fashion designers, or state-initiated international exhibits encouraging foreign couturiers to invest in Filipino designs.
With little government support, fashion organizations have made initiatives of their own in boosting local business.
Events like the Philippine Fashion Week, launched in 1997 by Runway productions, and Metrowear, organized by Metro magazine, showcase local talent and at little cost to new and veteran designers.
Members of the Fashion by the Wedding Designers of the Philippines, meanwhile, are trying to promote the Philippines as a great wedding destination to draw in tourists and overseas workers.
"There is no push from the government, maybe because they are busy with other things. Siguro nga dahil sa corruption, it hinders everyone from realizing their dreams. Ang daming na-deprive ng opportunities because of that Parang, tapunan niyo naman kami niyan (money)," Bautista said.
The designers hope leaders will realize the importance of the fashion industry in years to come.
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hi
I think it is funny to know that there is a team of designers which bust their heads for you, for your look.It is funny and the same time nice because it makes you feel special and I guess you really are a special person if you can afford a team of designers only to make you look good.Wigs
There are also budget
There are also budget constraints to think of when designing a dress for the President. Bautista said Arroyo is known in the fashion scene as one who chafes at reports that her outfits are expensive.
levis jeans
They said her gown color
sorry, double post
laserboy
On the issue of whether we would write a story on a MALE president's fashion legacy, I assure you, laserboy, that we would.
In fact, there have been similar stories about former U.S. President George W. Bush, who was credited for sparking a blue-tie trend while he was in office.
(see article by Susan Langenhennig of the Times-Picayune here: http://www.nola.com/living/index.ssf/2008/02/the_bluetie_president.html)
Thank you for all your comments, they are truly appreciated!
dressing gloria...
It's just like freddie aguilar's wardrobe.
no matter what clothes he wears, he still looks like a monkey.
dressing a midget would be tougher.
Sexist
This is an issue when the President is a woman. I don't think you media people will make this an issue if the President is a MAN.