Malcolm's makes case for best pancakes in town

Posted at 06/19/14 7:45 PM

A stylized rendition of a ranch view dominates the interiors of Malcolm’s. Photo by Vladimir Bunoan for ABS-CBNnews.com

MANILA – Malcolm’s Deli in Bonifacio Global City is more than a showcase restaurant for its sister company, Kitayama, which is known for its Wagyu beef sourced locally from pastures at the foothills of Mt. Kitanglad in Bukidnon.

Although Kitayama has its own meat shop in Makati, its owners decided to open Malcolm’s -- which used to run a burger joint near ABS-CBN that has since closed – to show off the premium quality of its products.

The deli shelf at Malcolm’s.Photo by Vladimir Bunoan for ABS-CBNnews.com

Early this year, Malcolm’s Deli, which has been around since 2009 at the ground floor of Fairways Tower, tweaked its concept to highlight the retail space, which has been expanded to include other artisanal products, like Solaris sea salt.

But as a restaurant, Malcolm’s earns top marks on its own. For instance, its most talked-about dish does not even use Kitayama meat at all. Its Stack Buttermilk Pancakes could well be the best in town, even when compared with those served at pancake-specialty restaurants.

Malcolm’s Stack. Photo by Vladimir Bunoan for ABS-CBNnews.com

It also helps that Malcolm’s has that relaxed feel that has become exceedingly rare even in a new development like BGC. The restaurant itself is designed like a living room with a view of the woods-y area of the adjacent Makati Golf Club – an ideal setting to enjoy breakfast classics like pancakes, which were perfectly thick yet still fluffy and quite satisfying on its own even without the traditional maple syrup.

Malcolm’s also serves its own flavored syrups (blueberry and strawberry) that certainly add a welcome fruity flavor to the pancakes, while a sprinkling of granola bits and a side of fruits provide texture.

(Breakfast seems to be a focus of the restaurant based on the number of breakfast items listed on the menu, including several kinds of eggs Benedict and omelettes, as well as Wagyu versions of tapa, corned beef and steak and eggs.)

The Carbonara Romano. Photo by Vladimir Bunoan for ABS-CBNnews.com

Another refreshingly traditional offering at Malcolm’s is the Carbonara Romano. This particular pasta dish seems to be making a comeback with several high-end restaurants including this – or some version of it -- on their menus. But the emphasis this time is on the dish’s classic simplicity – and the perfectly executed egg on top that provides the rustic richness that has made the carbonara a long-time favorite among pasta lovers.

Kitayama Wagyu steak. Photo by Vladimir Bunoan for ABS-CBNnews.com

A meal at Malcolm’s, however, can’t be complete without sampling the prized Kitayama meats, which can be enjoyed either as sandwiches (and Malcolm’s has a pretty wide selection) or as full meals.

The deli concept blends well to the “paluto” idea since customers can pick their steak and have it cooked to their exact specification and then choose their sauce (gravy, béarnaise, garlic rosemary cream and mushroom demi glace) and sides (mashed potato, garlic rice, brown rice and “killer steak” rice) to go with the meat.

Fried beef ribs.Photo by Vladimir Bunoan for ABS-CBNnews.com

A more Pinoy option is the fried beef ribs, which can be enjoyed on its own as some sort of bar chow, although it is but properly served with rice. Packed with flavor, the ribs were juicy and meaty such that you’d want to enjoy it as a meal. But at the same time, that crunch also makes you want to munch on it.

Malcolm’s actually has several starters that can double as “pulutan” including a wagyu sisig and chicken wings. The restaurant has an al fresco area that is perfect for relaxing after work.

Kitayama Wagyu burger. Photo by Vladimir Bunoan for ABS-CBNnews.com

Naturally, the Kitayama Wagyu Burger is still on the menu and it was a great reminder of just how juicy Malcolm’s burgers are even at their most basic. Of course, one can pimp it up with extra toppings, such as bacon, garlic cream cheese, blue cheese dressing, caramelized onions, crispy fried onions, barbecue sauce, pickled pepperoncini, fried egg, sautéed mushrooms and Wagyu chilli con carne.

Whether you’re coming to splurge on a steak dinner or just enjoy a simple burger, Malcolm’s Deli is certainly among the more under-rated choices at the bustling BGC.

We wouldn't mind lining up for its pancakes.

Malcolm’s Deli
G/F Fairways Tower
5th Street, Bonifacio Global City